Part 2 of my sushi special is going to have quite a different feel, because making sushi part 2 has quite a different feel. Now when I’m cooking I have a lot of energy. I go around, kick cabinets shut, slam drawers, and never put anything down carefully if I can throw it back into place. I’ve learned from bitter experience that this frame of mind doesn’t work for sushi, not at all. I’m not going to get pretentious about the exact and correct way to prepare food – this is not a new kitchen. But sushi is fundamentally complicated and precise, and needs a bit of concentration.
In fact, the mood and attention required to prepare sushi can be quite satisfying. It’s a characteristically Chinese/Japanese approach, taking a lot of time and care into a (relatively) simple activity and thereby transforming it into a peaceful magical and meditative experience. The same approach is shown (though more so) in the tea ceremony, where every fold of clothing must be in the correct position, every individual movement of the hands must be precise, every pause perfect. It’s pretty awesome.
So shhhhh… listen carefully.
I’m just going to cover how to make the basic maki (roll) today. Once you have that down you can do anything. I used to jump in and try all kinds of different shapes, but last year I decided that I would focus on learning how to make basic maki, as best as possible, so that’s what I’ll talk about here. There are plenty of guides going around the net on all sorts of different forms of sushi, you can look them up yourself.
First, you’ll want to have everything you need ready and tidy. Pre-cut all your vegetables into fine strips (I usually use carrots, cucumbers, spring onions, peppers and mushrooms), and when necessary, peel, bone, clean and/or chop your fish and shellfish. I use smoked salmon trimmings because they are delicious and cheap and warps don’t matter on rolls, prawns, shellfish sticks, mussels, cod, snapper, all kinds. Stronger flavored things like smoked salmon and prawns are best, milder fish like cod don’t create as strong a contrast of flavors.
Your rice should be done and cooled, and you’ll want to cover it with a damp tea towel so it doesn’t dry out as you work. Place a tablespoon in a cup of water, which you will use to scoop out the rice. Store it in the cup when you’re not using it, if it’s dry the rice will start to stick together and clump together in one giant lump. Not good. Clean the surface so it’s spotless and organize everything so you can reach it.
At this point, I have found the way to get the best results and enjoy the process the most is to make sure that your mind is really clear, calm and not thinking about other things. Whatever you do, don’t try to make sushi in a hurry or when you have a bad head, you’ll mess it up and end up frustrated. In fact, I turn off whatever music is playing, sit down, and do five minutes of meditation, just concentrating on my breathing and shutting out the rest of the world. Sounds over the top, I know, but this is a process, and a food, worth that bit of time. In a sense, the time you spend on it makes it special, making it worth the time. Make sense?
Now you are ready to start. Take a sheet of nori and place it shiny side down on the surface (it should try to curl towards you if you did it right). I ran my smallest knife along the top edge to keep it from curling as I layer the rice.
Take a couple tablespoons of the vinegared rice with your (wet) tablespoon and spread it evenly on the bottom half and some of the nori sheet. Then add strips of shellfish and some vegetables, whatever you think will go well together. At this point you need to work steadily – don’t rush, you don’t have to be fast, but keep moving, because the nori sheet will absorb the moisture from the rice and get a bit soggy, and it won’t be as easy to roll.
Press down on the fish and vegetables with all of your fingers, gently pushing them into the rice to keep the roll still. Then, use your thumbs to bring the bottom of the nori sheet up and over it, and start rolling. Once it’s rolling, grab it to its full length with all your fingers and continue to squeeze gently as you roll it, moving your fingers back and forth just a bit to keep it reasonably level and holding firmly. This ensures that it stays on tight. It’s all in practice, folks.
Once you have only an inch of unrolled nori left, dip your thumbs into the cup of water and run your thumbs back and forth across the length of the excess, pressing down firmly. Re-moisten if necessary. This will make the seaweed strip wet and sticky. In fact, it will start to rub a bit under your thumbs. Then grab the roll again and twist it forward over the end, then back and forth a few times, pressing down firmly. If you do it right, it will seal tight.
Put your rolls in the fridge until you have them all ready. They’ll loosen up and seal a little better while they’re there. However, you don’t want to keep them around too long before eating them, as they get a bit rubbery after a few hours.
Finally, the cut. This is where a very sharp, shallow-edged blade like a Global comes in really handy. If my Global hasn’t been sharpened in the last week, I sharpen it before making sushi. You want to be able to cut by simply moving the blade back and forth, with almost no pressure but your own weight. That ensures you don’t squash the roll out of shape.
And the only thing left to do is present your sushi with panache. Arrange the rolls artistically, with a small bowl for a mixture of soy sauce and wasabi (Japanese green horseradish). For added joy, wash it down with a strong drink served in small cups (but finish all the cutting first).
A few final notes: I’m not trying to claim that this is genuine, authentic sushi, or in any way expert. I’ve made sushi about 20-30 times. My experience is such that a real sushi chef might not beat me to death watching me work. These guys are serious, they train for years and their precision is extraordinary. But it’s pretty good for what you can make at home with a reasonable amount of time and basic ingredients.
I was originally inspired and instructed by Hutch’s now legendary Mensa sushi guide. It is worth reading. I’ve gathered tips and snippets from everywhere, but this method is the result of my own experimentation – I’ve tried and eliminated the bamboo mat and various other complications – this is just what works for me.
As usual, your mileage may vary, and I wholeheartedly encourage you to experiment for yourself. With a little time and preparation, anyone can make sushi, and it will pay off for their effort.
