My last visit to Pisa was in the 1980s, a quick train ride from Florence to snap some photos of the famous Leaning Tower or Campanile (cathedral bell tower) and then a quick retreat to the Tuscan capital. I admit my memory may be a little hazy, but at the time the tower was interesting, the grounds were crowded, and the rest of the site was underpromoted. Things have changed in Pisa since my last visit. The Leaning Tower and the rest of the site were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. The tower remains today on National Geographic’s “7 Wonders of the Middle Ages” list.
Visitor access to the tower had been stopped years ago to prevent further erosion; it is now open on a limited basis. Today, the Opera Della Primaziale Pisana (OPA), a non-profit organization, manages the entire site. Visitors can walk around the buildings in “Miracle Square”, however you can only access these beautiful structures with a ticket. There are two variants of tickets, one that includes a visit to the tower and another that does not. We chose without as the wait to go up the tower was 3 1/2 hours so you should go early if you really want to get a view from the top of the tower.
The famous Piazza del Duomo stands slightly isolated, northwest of Pisa’s city center. The buildings in the square include: the cathedral (Duomo), the baptistery, the leaning tower and the Camposanto (cemetery). There are references to this site as the location of the Church of Pisa before Constantine’s peace pact in 313. Historical research has determined that the site in fact enjoyed a much more prominent location in the city during Etruscan times and Late Roman, during that time. the river Auser flowed close to the square and would have provided access to the sea. The Auser River stopped flowing sometime in the last millennium and Pisa’s city center has gravitated to the other side of the Arno River. The nature of this urban development has created a unique historical site in a park-like setting.
Sacred buildings from the Etruscan era were destroyed and replaced by structures from the Middle Ages, which stand on the site today. The Duomo (cathedral) was begun in 1063 and is an important example of the Pisan style of architecture. The exterior of the cathedral and the interior ceiling are impressive. The circular baptistery is in the Romanesque style with a Gothic dome, begun in 1152 and the main entrance is aligned with that of the cathedral. The bell tower (Campanile) was begun in 1173, it began to lean when the structure reached about 33 feet. The Campanile was finally completed around 1301, but due to poor substructure it has continued to move over the years. The Camposanto began in 1278 and was finished in the 15th century. The entire site has been challenged over the years by natural and man-made causes, the condition of the ground beneath the tower, a fire at the Duomo in 1595, and the Camposanto roof and sculptures were destroyed in 1944 during the Second World War.
Our visit to Pisa was early in the season, before Easter and the summer crowds. The site was still very crowded, although the combo OPA ticket provides a bit of crowd control inside the structures, it does nothing for the jostling masses vying for a spot to take crazy photos of their friends holding up the tower. He was not interested in such antics and could only imagine the chaos in the height of the tourist season. However, respite is available at the edges of the square, at two museums, the Museo delle Sinopie and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo available on the same combo ticket. These two small buildings house actual pieces from the site, including the sinopies, or artists’ sketches, of the frescoes found in the Camposanto.
In the end, a visit to Pisa should not be missed. The small town is easily accessible as a day trip from Florence, but it really is worth a slightly longer visit. Be aware, however, that like all attractions, there are questionable vendors, fringe tourist menus, and plenty of street vendors selling junk.
